Not much to report through the week here.

Powdercoated a bunch of parts and I started researching what I want to do with my differential / transmission.

Rear springs, rear trailing arm brackets, rear wheel hubs, rear brake caliper brackets.  Everything blasted with ~300 grit aluminum oxide in the blast cabinet, primed with zinc-rich primer for corrosion resistance, then top coated with a weatherable flat black.

Rear trailing arm brackets pictures here with travel limiters bolted in.  They do just as their name suggests - limits bushing deflection to improve connectedness of the suspension as well as to improve the life of the bushing.  This was one area that I did not want to use a polymer bushing - they are good for single axis bending but not for joints that need to articulate / roll.  At least in these cars, they're famous for binding up through travel and preventing smooth articulation of the suspension through travel.  They're popular though because they don't require a press to install or remove.  But I have a press, so I'm going to use a proper bushing.

Still lots of parts left to do.  Hope to get the rest of them prepped this weekend.  I also hope to get the fusebox out of the engine bay so I can start seam welding.

Also got a bunch of new parts in.  Inner and outer CV joint boot replacement kits for my half shafts, front wheel bearing / hub assemblies, new collar nuts / dust boots for the spindles, front swaybar bushings, rotor hold-down bolts, front brake wear sensor, and caliper rebuild kits for all 4 corners of the car.  More on this stuff later.

As for the differential, I'm trying to find information on whether a 3-clutch upgrade would be of any benefit for me.  You get increased lockup (better traction) and more braking stability (poor man's abs), but with that also comes resistance to turn-in at the corners and more of a tendency for oversteer on sharp (on or off) throttle input.  I'm trying to get more information on how to compensate for this by reducing carrier preload, but have been frustrated in my efforts thus far.  I want a car that will rotate, but also put the power down - tuned to be progressive towards the limit of traction.  Lots of info out there on how to do it, but not much explanation as to why and what implications there are.  Might just do it and experiment with it myself.