Parts are continuing to roll in.  Let me start off by saying that I hate the iphone camera.

Power steering stuff is all here:

•  Turn One power steering pump + orifice
•  -6AN Russell power steering hose and fittings
• Fragola -6AN weld bung
• M14X1.5 to -6AN rack adapter
• Earl's 3/8" to 6AN compression fitting (for use on reservoir return)

Oil cooler stuff is all here from Improved Racing:

•  Setrab 925 rad
• -10AN braided stainless line
• -10AN Raceflux fittings
• Improved racing oil cooler adapter w/ built in thermostat.

Clutch hydraulic stuff is all here:

• Tilton 77 master cylinder - 7/8" bore
• Wilwood 4 oz remote reservoir kit
• 9/16-18 to 3/8" barb fitting and 9/16" copper crush washer for the master supply port from Sweet Performance (took me for fucking ever to find these parts.  nobody makes them)
• 3AN braided stainless line and fittings from Pegasus (to slave cylinder)
• 3/8" EPDM supply line from reservoir
• Speed bleeder line for slave cylinder (not pictured)

Figured it was about time I starting figuring out if any of this shit is going to work.


The Tilton M/C is obviously not a BMW part, so I need to adapt it to my pedal assembly.  Luckily for me I still have the pedal assembly out of the 325i to do the mockup on.

I made up a bracket out of aluminum - not really sure of placement yet, though.  I don't know how much firewall clearance I'm going to have, so the master might have to rotate down to swing out of the way to make some additional room.  To prevent interference problems between the pedal and master cylinder at that point, I'm going to need to extend the rod end on the master shaft out.  This will also move my engagement point up, which I'm not sure if I'm going to like.  I have all the dimensions / bore sizes / fluid volumes / distance + forces required to disengage the clutch to play with - but this is one of those things where doing the math won't really help me because I don't know where exactly the master can be positioned yet.  On the bench I don't have a firewall to contend with, and that doesn't do me any good.

Even though the master has a rod end on either side giving it a lot of flexibility to move as it needs to, I'd like to keep the bore of the master as parallel to travel as I can to minimize wear.  Unfortunately this is probably as close as I can get to that condition.  Idk yet.

More to come.